Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Road Rules


I don’t want to give the impression that I’m done complaining about Delhi men, but for now I’m just shifting focus slightly. Let’s talk about transportation in Delhi.

Driving in this city is a special kind of hell. Of course, I don’t drive. I make my friends drive me everywhere, and when they’re sick of me, I take auto rickshaws. But here are a few things I’ve noticed while sitting in the passenger seat:

A) There are no rules. Any idiot on the street could have told you this, but I thought I should make this clear at the beginning.
B) Don’t try to make or follow rules. Just don’t. I know your little good-samaritan heart really wants to, but I assure you, it’ll result in immediate death, or totaling of your car. Example: it’s late at night, you’re rolling up to a red light, you think hey, I’ll follow the rules and stop. Good job. Now you’ve been rear-ended by the massive truck being driven by a drunk man from Haryana who didn’t see your tiny car or the stoplight. If you’re lucky, he’ll hit you and stop. If you’re not, he won’t. Always run the reds, people…
C) Just keep going. You may think there isn’t enough space for your car on that tiny side of road before that bus comes at you and smashes you to smithereens, but I assure you, there is. Why? Because the bus will always either stop, or steer itself within a millimeter of your car. You’ll have several cardiac arrests, and you may even dent your bumper a few times, but you’ll make it through. Besides, if you don’t keep your foot on the accelerator, the car behind you will do it for you.
D) The only traffic that matters is the traffic in front of you. Whatever crazy stunts they pull, you’d better be ready to dodge, swerve or steer through them. The advantage of this, however, is that you get to do the same to the traffic behind you. You can steer from one side of the road clear across to the other (in any other city, this would be called changing lanes) without worrying who you’re going to cut off and who’s going to get upset with you. Essentially, you can tell all the traffic behind you, “bhanrdh mein jao”. If you don’t know what that means, get creative.
E) Since you never need to know what’s behind you, you also don’t need fancy contraptions such as rearview mirrors. In fact, you’d be surprised at all the things in your car that you don’t actually need. Here’s a list of all the things you could strip your car of, and still be perfectly fit to drive in Delhi: windshield wipers (even during the monsoon, overrated), side view mirrors, rearview mirrors, tape/CD player, radio, antenna, air conditioner, front bumper, back bumper, any of your windows, spare tire, any tire, and of course, your rear windshield.

Congrats, grad. You’re ready to drive in Delhi.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The Great Avtar Singh


My editor, Avtar, has taken exception to the fact that I have been slamming all Delhi men. As he said to me this morning, “How can you say such things about Delhi men when you have such a fine specimen standing in front of you? In each post you write slamming men, you are to write, ‘Avtar, of course, excepted’… it’s only four words.”

So, to give Avtar the greatest exception of all, I may as well attribute a post to him, possibly one of the most entertaining presences in my life in Delhi, even if, at times, a bit scary.

I first met Avtar Singh when a friend working for TimeOut Delhi, the magazine that I now write for, told me to come and hang out in her office with her. Avtar was sitting at his desk… or I should say, he was lying at it. Avtar has a habit of stretching out his entire body over the length of his black, reclining chair, resting one arm languorously over his perfectly pinned turban, and waving the other at whichever one of his minions, as he affly calls us, is being most faaltu at the time. The day I took a job with him was no different. I walked into the office, nervous and not quite sure what was about to happen to me, when Avtar strolled in and exclaimed “Wah! A new minion?!! Good girl the laltain!” I quickly learned that this was the highest form of praise from the bossman.

What I also learned quickly was Avtar’s particular way of exerting authority over us. There is, of course, the calling of names. His favourites: minion, dumbass, silly woman, and Gujju (for the one half-Gujurati girl in our office). Then there are the threatening text messages when we’re late. And then there’s always the screaming at us from his office… he won’t say which one of us he needs to yell at; he’ll just start yelling and you better as hell figure out if it’s you or not. But my favorite is his intense male assertion. In an office full of women, Avtar prides himself on being the only large, Sikh man, capable of commanding absolutely everything and everyone in Delhi. He makes bold statements as he stands in the middle of the office, and smiles knowingly to himself when we can’t think of clever comebacks (which is almost always… competing with Avtar’s peculiar wit and humour is not an easy task). He rests his hands affirmatively on his hips and says things like “Yaar, why the fuck do you guys order this shit from McDonalds, man? Do you know you’re eating your way to cancer? Give me a bite immediately!” Or, he’ll turn to me and say “What were you just discussing? I won’t listen to girltalk in this office. You’ll go outside and get wet in the rain if you want to discuss shit like that,” after which he’ll pick up the paper and say “Look at that, dude! Jennifer Aniston’s going porno!”

I have to say, though, that Avtar’s presence in office is what gives this magazine the kick that it has. While he was taking leave after the birth of his son, the office seemed to die a little. When he came back, while we all went back to doing more work, we also all seemed to cheer up a bit, as we’ve all seemed to learn his humour and now actually find all his jokes funny. Possibily Avtar’s most entertaining moments are the days he decides to play “Desert Island” with us. Desert Island is a game in which Avtar asks us questions about what sorts of experiences we would prefer if we were stranded on a desert island. There are, of course, right and wrong answers, though he’ll never admit it and he’ll never tell you what they are. Example: “If you were stranded on a desert island, would you rather have one fabulous, gourmet, pepperoni pizza on Monday, or ganda butter chicken from Gulati’s for the whole week?” The answer any normal person would give, of course, is butter chicken because of survival. But that answer is incorrect. The secret information that you have to be aware of is the fact that: a) Avtar’s favourite meal in the whole world is a good pizza pie and a beer, and b) Avtar will always claim that gourmet food is the only type of food worth eating, even though he WILL steal all of your fries if you order them. So, in the world of Avtar Singh, if you prefer butter chicken from Gulati’s on a desert island, you are a silly minion indeed.

But under the (not so) hardened exterior, Avtar is an incredibly sweet man who really loves us. (Don’t tell him I said that). How do I know this? Well, there are the names that he affectionately calls us (aka, adding ‘kaur’ to each of our names… I’m PiyalKaur), and there’s the fact that if you do good work, he’ll smile and say “good girl the laltain!” There’s also the fact that he actually cares about what happens to us. When I first arrived in Delhi and had no place to stay, Avtar asked me on a daily basis what he could do to help me find housing. When he learned I was taking cold showers even in the winter because my incredibly tiny post-college flat didn’t have a water heater, I mean, he’s never stopped making fun of me for it, but he also did offer to buy me a heater. He’s incredibly sensitive to our personal life struggles. This office is chock full of young women, just out of college, desperately trying to make their way in the world, and Avtar (who, at thirty-five, thinks of himself as a big brother/father figure/older and wiser gentleman who needs to teach us about life) takes us all under his wing. Whether this means dispensing advice (“Let me tell you something about the world, PiyalKaur…”), or relentlessly making fun of us until we change a bad habit (“Dude, can I buy you some fucking shoe polish?! How can you leave the house with such battered shoes?!), Avtar loves us enough to want to “sort all of us out.”

So, here’s to you, Avtar. The man that gave me my first job, the man that made me laugh every day at work, the man that taught me more about writing, life, and humour than any professor or class ever did. I’ll refrain from calling him the “perfect specimen” that he seems to think he is, but I will say that I’ll never forget him.

Friday, July 4, 2008

The Peeing Man

To continue with my man-bashing, I think it’s time for an entry on the Peeing Man. The PM is a particular breed of namoona in Delhi. There are the starers and the gesturers, there are even the throwers… but the pee-ers are the ones that piss (haha) me off the most.

I mean, think about it. It really takes some gall for a man of a certain age to just unzip and pull it out in the middle of a busy street. My question is, how do you decide where? What differentiates that one spot of crumbling wall from the spot a hundred yards down the street, which is possibly more covered by bushes?

Recently, while waiting for a friend in their car, I thought I’d amuse myself by people watching. I had a few Stare Downs, I exchanged a few coy smirks with the women walking by who knew exactly who I was Staring Down. But suddenly, as I peered out the window for my next target, there stopped a man, right in front of my window, broad daylight, traffic going by… he just tinkled. Right there. In front of me. As I watched. Kept eye contact with me the whole time.

What, sir, was the point? Did you think I would be incredibly turned on by this display? Or maybe you thought my friend’s car deserved your trickle more than the other ones around it? Maybe the wall that you were peeing on was too white for you… can’t have Delhi being clean, can we?

I watched in amazement as he zipped up, flashed me a debonair smile, and moved on his way. Here’s to you, Peeing Man… the most exasperating sort of the male species in this city.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Delhi Pride




I have a lot of things to say about Delhi, but right now I need to talk about something incredible that I witnessed this past Sunday: Delhi’s first ever Gay Pride Parade.

BRAVO to those who organized it, and SHAME on me for thinking not many people would go. I’ve never been to a Pride before, but I had assumed that Delhi’s would be small, not wanting to get in people’s faces in fear that there might be violent protests or that someone might shut it down. Nothing like the loud and proud Prides that happen in the States.

I couldn’t have been more wrong. As we assembled at the corner of Barakhamba Road and Tolstoy Marg, my expectations were already shattered. More than a hundred people were there, everyone was hugging, kissing, smiling, people were handing out posters and stickers and flags… you couldn’t turn around without being filmed or shot by newspaper cameras or interviews by eager journalists. The police escorts who had promised to protect us were flabbergasted by an alarming presence of hijras, but even they couldn’t stop themselves from smiling at the fun.

As we started to march, a giant rainbow flag in our midst, chants of “377 Bharat Chhordo!” ringing all around us, the dhol beat was enough to make everyone start dancing in the streets. Before we knew it, almost 1,000 people were marching with us, and I have to say that for a city that I’ve recently been rather disillusioned with, I felt extremely proud to be a Delhiite on Sunday. It was one of the most euphoric occasions I’ve ever witnessed in the city. Hundreds of people who I haven’t seen in years came out to celebrate, all of the Delhi I knew and most of the Delhi I didn’t was there. As we reached Jantar Mantar, people started crying with joy.

I was reading this morning that when Deepa Mehta (whose film Fire about a lesbian couple was unimaginably discriminated against when it released in Delhi) heard about how well the march went, she broke down. She said “I wish I could be there. My heart swells with pride when Fire is mentioned as a favourite film on alternate sexuality. If Fire has inspired the homosexual community, I guess I have much to be proud of.”

Whether Mehta inspired the parade or not is doubtful, but what can be said is that Delhi was certainly ready for it. I’m sad that it took Delhi so long to get here (India’s first Pride was in Calcutta in 1999), but I’m so glad that Delhi’s maiden Pride was so beautiful.

PS: Check out Monday June 30’s Times of India. Yours truly makes an appearance on the front page photo of Pride.

Monday, June 30, 2008

ChhokraBoyHeroNumberOne

Let's start with the obvious: men in Delhi.
Correction:
There are no men in Delhi... only boys with... sticks.
Here, I would like to pay tribute to these boys. They are the ones who decide what I wear in the morning. They are the ones who make me run home by 8.30pm if I'm alone. They are the reason I no longer own tank tops, above-the-knee skirts, even bags that I can't sling across my whole body. They are the reason I've completely given up on wearing make up or bothering to put myself together at all. They are the people for whom I practice my "don't mess with me" face in the mirror every so often. They are the reason blending in with the crumbling cement wall behind me as I hail an auto seems comforting.

Cheers, boys. My life here wouldn't be the same without you. And just for making me into the toughest, most hassled, agitated and frustrated version of myself, I'm dedicating this entire post to you.

I’ve found, on close observation, that there are several categories of these boys. They are:
The point-me-out-to-your-friends-in-the-car-and-ogle-me boys
The pick-his-nose-while watching-me-pay-my-autowala-in-
amazement boys
The ride-up-next-to-me-on-his-motorcycle-to-say-something-rude-to-me boys
The circle-around-back-to-my-auto-against-traffic-to-say-something-
rude-to-me-boys
The can’t-get-my-attention-so-he-THROWS-something-at-me-boys
And, my most favourite, the Mumma-told-me-I-could-be-a-jerk-to-any-woman-I-want-as-long-
as-I-marry-a-virgin boys.

This last category is the one I find most fascinating because they ride around on their motorcycles, often four or five hefty Punjabi men to a bike, sparking and wheelie-ing their way through the city, shouting offensive comments to any female on legs, but the truth is…
They’re the biggest bheetus of the bunch. If you so much as shout a single offensive word back at them, they tuck their tails sheepishly between their legs and hurtle off toward the next target. They’ve never had a real conversation with a woman in their lives, and they’re just looking for some jockish, high school attention.
One day, in a fit of Delhi rage, a friend pretended that she was interested in the advances of a group of such boys, just to see what would happen. The boys laughed nervously, screamed “bhenchooooood!” at the top of their lungs, and darted off past her car. I wouldn’t recommend such behaviour, but it’s comforting to know that sometimes, it works.

Speaking of appropriate ways to deal with these boys, I’ve become a big fan of what I like to call the Stare Down.
When I first came to Delhi, I thought avoidance was the best tactic. But the truth is, avoidance just fosters more staring. I CANNOT for the life of me understand what it is with Delhi and staring. And it’s not just the men, it’s women too. All the aunty-jis who think I look like I come from “foreign” and are completely fascinated by my short hair also stare me into oblivion. In any other country or even in another Indian city, if I caught the eye of someone staring at me, the starer would quickly avert their eyes, ashamed.
Not in Delhi, my friends. Ohhh, no. In Delhi, if you catch a starer’s eye, it’s full on war. In other words, it’s time for the Stare Down.
The Stare Down has to be executed particularly carefully. Once you’ve caught the eye of the starer, there can’t be even a moment of hesitation… you CANNOT look away. Instead, it’s time to change your face. You have to alter it from being surprised and annoyed to reading “What?! Whachu lookin’ at?!” This is accomplished by setting your mouth as tightly as possible in a straight line, and slightly frowning, but not furrowing your eyebrows.
If this doesn’t work (and you’ll know that it’s not working in about twenty seconds), then it’s time for the eyebrow raise. If you can manage it, raising one eyebrow is really best, but if not, both will do. The point is to say “Seriously? Are you STILL staring at me? Do you ACTUALLY want me to jump out of my auto and punch you in face?!”
Usually after the Stare Down plus Eyebrow Raise, your opponent will back down, and you’ll have the elated sensation of having won. Sometimes, though, the staring is so intense that you won’t be able to take it anymore, and then you’ll finally give in and back down. If the traffic is particularly bad, you’ll look over at the enemy a few seconds after you’ve lost, just to see if he’s still there, staring. Most of the time, he is, and then you’re damn upset with yourself for having looked, just further underlining the fact that you lost.
But no worries, you’ll have your chance to start another fight… as soon as this traffic light turns green and you’re stuck at the next light, 200 yards down Ring Road.

And so ends my tribute to the chhokra boys, the hero number ones, the Salman Khan look-alikes and the bovine scrotum scratchers.

Until the next rumination.

Happy staring.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

I probably should have done this when I moved here, not as I am about to leave...

...but then again, that wouldn't have been very me of me.

I'm not looking for this to be a profound web log of my life altering experiences in Delhi. There are plenty of those out there. I'm not even looking for this to prove how well I know the city. Because the truth is, even after a year and a half, I don't know this city like the people who blog about it do. I just have some questions about what a friend of mine once called "this meandering and occasionally wonderful city." And I'm just wondering if other people sit in their cars, inevitable stuck in traffic twice a day, wondering the same things I wonder about the Indian capitol, day in and day out.

Here's to Delhi, and a damn entertaining year, if nothing else.